Everything is more expensive this year, and it includes utilities like your water bills. While vegetables can be grown in your yard, and can be empowered, it is not very efficient (compared to fields) in terms of water use. There are many ways to become more efficient and durable, including using drip irrigation, but another way is to give only plants to vegetables that do not require too much water to start.
Water is the key at the root
Before I reach specific vegetables, it is important to go to some common water tips.
Remember that vegetables get hydration through their roots, which remain underground. Like a hose or sprinkler, water from the top, problems are: You are more wet than the roots, which creates a condition of the spread of the disease; You are less accurately filling water, so water is wasting; And due to the effect of water against the dirt, drops cause drops that are also in the dirt, as well as the disease. Filling water gently and constantly at the ground level with drip irrigation is the best option for both plant and your wallet.
To ensure that you are filling water efficiently, plants of the same water needs in your garden, so that you can set the drip properly in water.
But even more important is to remember that the roots grow over time. A new seedling has shallow roots, while a season plant is deeply installed. More roots means that the plant can absorb more water from deep underground. Low roots mean less hydration than soil, so more water is required at a shallow depth. (Although some vegetables, such as corn and letters, will always be shallow, and thus there are no good candidates for less water.)
Huthhouse Plant
As Oregon State UniversityThe water requirement of a tomato plant is denied with deep roots that are installed in the plants. As above, you want to provide enough water in the weather because the roots are installed keeping in mind not to exceed water, resulting in the roots close to the surface.
If the plant requires water, they will deepen the roots in search of moisture. To reduce the water a lot, if it is not cutting it completely from the mid-season, then your crop should not be damaged. Lack of surface water will spread the disease, and if you reduce their water then tomatoes will cook. It is not just tomato, either: squash, which includes zucchini, summer and winter squash, as well as melons, brinjals and warm chillies, all behave equally in the case of water needs and roots.
beans
Credit: Amanda Blum
Most beans, especially pole beans, are adapted to drought conditions over time. For example, they can survive and produce flowers and fruits with minimal moisture. Beans need to sprout the water, so if you direct the sowing, make sure that the seed has a frequent moisture levels. Once sprouted, you can reduce water (but not finished). Since beans have such a small season (usually 60 days or less), they require less water than existing time. Low moisture powder is going to reduce common bean problems such as mildew, a quick spread surface fungus.
What do you think so far?
Chard and Okra
Credit: Amanda Blum
For a few heat hardier vegetables such as Chard and Okra, they still require water, but do better with weekly or each-each-weekly deep water, contrary to the daily drip. Okra is a native to the dryer climate and prefers less water. The deep roots of the plant allow it to draw enough water from the soil to maintain itself. The chord and kail can use their giant leaves to shade the ground, which is an effective form of moisture retention. Sometimes deep water will be sufficient to keep the plant growing.
Blueberries prefer less moisture
I know, blueberry is a fruit and not vegetable, but I felt forced to include advice anyway. Consider it on a bonus tip.
A few years ago, Micah Giselman, from a blueberry farmer Morning shed form Camb came to inspect many of my bushes in the Canby, and he had surprising advice: “People fill their blueberries with water,” they explained to me. They appreciate good drainage and improve with less water.
I have since changed the height of my blueberry to ensure better drainage and take water lines far away – the results were amazing. I experienced better yields, but berries were the plumper and tasting better. This is not decisive, of course, because they eat for a lot of variables, but I take the advice of a blueberry specialist seriously.
